Ucluelet in Barkley Sound

Passing through the Deer Group in Barkley Sound

We departed Bamfield, tucked in the southeast corner of Barkley Sound, and made our way westward through the Deer Group and Broken Group.  These groups of islands, scattered through central Barkley Sound, are popular among kayakers and sport fishermen. 

Passing through the Broken Islands in Barkley Sound

The scenery is beautiful, and pleasure boaters can find protected anchorages in scenic coves.  The Pinkerton Islands are found in the northern portion of the Sound, and there are several inlets worth exploring.  One could spend weeks just in Barkley Sound alone.  Our crossing of the Sound from Bamfield on the southeastern shore, to Ucluelet along the southwestern shore, took three hours.  Ucluelet means “people of the safe harbour” in the Nuu-chah-nulth language.  Captain Cook arrived in Barkley Sound in 1778 and Captain James Barkley followed in 1787.  A trading post in Ucluelet was established around 1870 by Captain Francis, the owner of several sealing schooners. Today, Ucluelet has a population of about 1,700 people. 

Entering Ucluelet Small Craft Harbour

The town has nice cafes, gift shops, art galleries, a large grocery store, and a marine supply store.  Boaters can find moorage at the Ucluelet Small Craft Harbour, which is within easy walking distance of town. 

Ample Moorage can be found at 52 Steps Dock

Kevin Cortes manages the Ucluelet Harbour docks as well as the “52 Steps Dock,” located on the eastern side of town.  The 52 Steps Dock, actually 53 steps according to our count, provides ample moorage at this 450-foot dock; the dock also serves as the customs reporting station for the west side of Vancouver Island. 

The "52 Steps"

Small cruisers and runabouts can call Island West Resort as a third option for guest moorage.  We enjoyed shopping at the Co-op Grocery, visiting the Bakery in town, and touring by bicycle.  We spent one afternoon riding out to Amphitrite Point to see the historic 1915 Amphitrite Lighthouse.  The original lighthouse, made of wood, was built in 1906, a year after a ship struck the reef and sank, resulting in loss of life and cargo. 

The 1915 Amphitrite Lighthouse

In 1914 the lighthouse was destroyed by storm waves and replaced in 1915 by the current structure.  The new lighthouse used a kerosene lamp with two large stainless-steel mirror reflectors.  Two concrete holding ponds held water for the steam-powered fog horn.  The squat shape or bunker-style construction of the lighthouse was designed to withstand the brutal force of the seas, which assault this structure every winter.