Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Locks and Bridges


From Lignano, we continued westward along the Canale de Lustri, then turned southwest into the narrow Canale dei Pantani.  If you are wondering what the tidal range is for the area, it is only a difference of three feet, and we were not yet at “high-tide.” 
Stirring-up mud, going aground at low tide
Needless to say, we ran aground.  For boaters from the Pacific Northwest, this was a new experience.  There’s nothing you can do about it except wait for the rising tide when the boat floats free from the mud.  We made the best of it, using the stop as a lunch break with a spread of fresh tomatoes, cheese, crackers, prosciutto and fruit along with wine; what a nice Italian pastime under the afternoon sun!  After about 45 minutes, we were on our way once again to the town of Carole. 
The Lock at Bevazzana Sinistra
At Bevazzana Sinistra, we came to our first lock; it remains open except on flood tides caused by a full moon and excessive rain.  Canal locks are generally automated, operated by a lock attendant; bridges that need to be opened also have an attendant. 
Low Bridges require putting the Bimini down
Our next challenge was a short distance away, maneuvering under a low bridge at Bevazzana Destra.  Yes, we remembered to lower the Bimini top on the boat to avoid damage. 
A Community of Fish Houses or perhaps a Private Fishing Resort?
Continuing west on Canale Lugugnana and Canale Cavanella, we circled another lagoon area with “fish houses” and made our way south along Canale Saetta, arriving at the town of Caorle after 5 ½ hours total travel time for the day. 
A scenic landscape of Fish Houses
The many fish houses along the way are scenic and quite intriguing.  
Ten minutes prior to entering Caorle, boaters must make a call (phone number provided by Houseboat.it/LeBoat) to have a bridge opened before entering the harbor. 
Opening the Bridge to enter Caorle
We were about to make our phone call (no radio communication onboard), when we saw the bridge being opened for a commercial boat, so we continued through. 
Mark at the Helm
We tied-up at the marina’s temporary transit dock and awaited our assignment space for moorage at the med-moor bulkhead. 
Checking-in and awaiting our assigned space
When checking in at marinas, the captain must leave his/her passport at the office along with the boat's documentation provided by Houseboat.it/Le Boat; these items are returned at checkout. 
The Nice Marina at Caorle
We noted that marina moorage costs were around two dollars (U.S.) per foot; comparable to higher-end marines in the Pacific Northwest. 
The Seawall and Promenade; church of Madonna dell'Angelo in the distance on the Adriatic
Caorle is a lovely town with wonderful views of the Adriatic from its substantial promenade, which served in earlier times as a dam for protection from the Sea.  At the northern end of the seawall stands the church of Santuario della Madonna dell’Angelo, built in the 17th Century by those who migrated here from inland Concordia.
Beautiful interior of Madonna dell'Angelo
On the nave’s ceiling is a fresco of the discovery, according to legend, of the wooden statue of the Madonna dell’Angel by fishermen. 
The Cathedral di Santo Stefano and Bell Tower dominates the Town Plaza
The Duomo (cathedral) di Santo Stefano dominates the town plaza, Piazza Vescovado, along with its cylindrical bell tower erected in 1038 on the ruins of an early Christian basilica from the 7th Century.  The Cathedral houses the skull and blood of Saint Stephen, Caorle’s first martyr.  The Duomo Museum, next to the Cathedral, displays Roman artifacts from the 3rd and 4th Centuries. 
Since the fall of the Roman Empire, around the 5th Century, Caorle began to be permanently settled.  Barbarian invasions had forced a population to seek refuge along the sea coast on islands of the lagoon, not easily accessible by the enemy.  Carole gradually became part of the Venetian Serenissima Sea Republic.  As westerners, we marvel at these dates and historic ruins, but locals seem to take them for granted, going about their daily business. 
Summer Tourists and Locals mingle on the streets on town
Beginning in the 1950’s, tourism transformed Caorle from a fishermen’s village to a tourist destination.
The Beach Scene at Caorle

If you would like more information on Canal Boating in Europe, or to book a canal boat trip for 2019, contact Mark Bunzel, (mark.bunzel@gmail.com) for information and briefings on canal boat trips in France and Italy now being planned.

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