Saturday, June 23, 2018

Reaching Burano


Passing under a Fish Net
From Cortellazzo we made our way northwest up the Fiume Piave, passing under the many fish nets hung above the river between the villages of Cortellazzo and Eraclea. 
Fiume Piave Lock
It was Saturday, and we needed to reach the lock at the intersection with Fiume Piave Vecchia, which is open only on Saturdays and Sundays. 
A 2-knot current was moving through the river, slowing our speed and creating a tricky passage through the lock.  After nearly an hour motoring, we passed under a low bridge (Bimini down) at Castalidia. 
Caposile Bridge
Our next time constraint was to reach the bridge at Caposile, open to boat traffic only at specific times during the day. 
Opening the Caposile Bridge
We were able to make the 12:30 pm opening; the next scheduled opening wouldn't be until 2 pm. 
Lock at Portegrandi
After another hour of motoring we reached the lock at Portegrandi to enter Canal Silone; it was another timing issue since this lock is closed from 12:30 pm to 2 pm. 
Since we were 30 minutes early for the 2 pm opening, we tied-up to some pilings along the bulkhead just outside the lock and had a bite to eat. 
We were soon on our way down the Canale Silone and entered the large lagoon of Venezia.  It became obvious from all the boat traffic that we were near the populated area of Venice. 
Approaching Burano
We made our way to the island city of Burano and tied along a seawall reserved for canal boat moorage. 
Colorful Shops and Houses in Burano
Burano is known for its lace making and brightly-painted houses of red, yellow, pink, green, purple and blue, shimmering in the sun along its small canals that intersect the town. 
Church of San Martin Vescovo, Burano
The church of San Martin Vescovo and its leaning bell tower is a focal point in the town square.  
Torcello, a historical site
Nearby is the island of Torcello, a 10-minute water-bus ride from Burano, or you can access the island by boat and moor on the east side of the island. Torcello was a venue for Roman holidays and is today the most important archaeological site in Venice’s lagoon.  Excavations in the 1960's unearthed the remains of Roman dwellings dating back to the Imperial age (1st and 2nd centuries A.D.)  After centuries of importance, the island was gradually abandoned, stripped of its assets, and is now largely uninhabited.  This rural island, with only a few inhabitants, was once the heart of Venice itself, with all its splendor and power.  Venice's first cathedral, first houses and first workshops were all located on Torcello; and it was from here that the first trading vessels sailed. 
Church of Santa Maria Assunta
The church or cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta went through three distinct building phases.  The first dates back to 639; of this only the lower part of the facade remains.  The second dates back to 864-867, and of this various elements are intact.  The third structure, circa 1008 is the church that is visited today.  The church/cathedral has gorgeous mosaics on the back wall depicting the Apotheosis of the Christ and the Final Judgement.  The mosaic floor of the church is also beautiful, dating from the 9th Century.  Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside the church, however, a pamphlet can be purchased which includes many photos of the mosaics.
Great Views of Torcello and the Lagoon from the Bell Tower
With an admission fee, you can tour the cathedral and hike to the top of the bell tower for spectacular views overlooking the Venetian lagoon. 
The hike is not difficult since steps turn into ramps around each corner of the tower; originally constructed in this manner.  Three large bells, which still ring today, can be seen at the top of the tower.  Next to the cathedral is the lovely church of Santa Fosca, built in the 10th Century with a circular layout.  The church serves as a venue for special religious services and weddings.  In fact we saw a wedding service in progress during our visit.  
The nearby small Museo di Torcello displays ancient Roman objects found in the region; some items are displayed on walls outside the museum.

If you would like more information on Canal Boating in Europe, or to book a canal boat trip for 2019, contact Mark Bunzel, (mark.bunzel@gmail.com) for information and briefings on canal boat trips in France and Italy now being planned.

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