Tuesday, July 31, 2018

New Transient Moorage in Pender Harbour

Entering Beautiful Pender Harbour

After spending several nights in Pender Harbour and making the rounds by dinghy; we are happy to report that boaters now have more options for transient moorage. 
New docks at Coho Marina in Gerrans Bay, Pender Harbour
The Coho Marina in Gerrans Bay recently installed new docks and now offers transient guest moorage in unoccupied slips; maximum boat size of 40 feet. 
Coho Marina (distant right) as seen from Painted Boat Resort
The marina has the advantage of being next door to Painted Boat Resort, where you can enjoy meals prepared by a world-class chef at the Lagoon Restaurant, it’s a fine dining opportunity not to be missed. 
New docks accommodate more boats at Pender Harbour Resort & Marina
Motoring across Pender Harbour to the north shore, we found that Pender Harbour Resort & Marina (formerly Duncan Resort) has installed all new docks in a new configuration, increasing their number of slips.  Transient guest moorage is available in unoccupied slips with a maximum boat size of 50 feet. 
The pool at Pender Harbour Resort is great family fun
This marina is a nice option for families, with a swimming pool located on the property.  John Henry’s Marina in Hospital Bay continues to be a popular stop, offering a nice grocery/gift store and operates the only fuel dock in Pender Harbour.  Other options for boaters include the Harbour Authority docks at the Madiera Park basin, where you can walk to two nearby grocery stores for major provisioning.  
The Whiskey Sough Public Wharf is a Harbour Authority facility
The Harbour Authority also governs two additional public docks in Pender Harbour; the Whiskey Slough Public Wharf in Gerrans Bay, and the Hospital Bay Public Wharf located across from John Henry’s fuel dock. 
Harbour Authority's Hospital Bay Public Wharf near John Henry''s Marina
Harbour Authority docks are first-come, first-served.  We found other smaller changes of interest in Pender Harbour, and enjoyed touring the various coves, nooks, and crannies in beautiful Pender Harbour.  The Harbour is an excellent place to tour by dinghy or kayak, each cove within Pender Harbour has a character all its own. 
An old net shed in Gerrans Bay
Viewing the homes, house boats, net sheds, wharves, and marinas is like traveling through the generations; it becomes clear that Pender Harbour has changed significantly over the years, modern homes are interspersed with older properties dating back to the early 1900’s.  Exploring by dinghy, picking up groceries by dinghy, and going out to dinner by dinghy is all part of the fun in Pender Harbour.            

Sunday, July 29, 2018

More New Finds

Beach Gardens Resort & Marina

After perusing Bliss Landing, we continued south to Beach Gardens Resort & Marina, where we had a moorage reservation for the night.  Located south of Powell River near Grief Point, Beach Gardens is a convenient stop along Malaspina Strait, with reasonable moorage rates and an excellent restaurant called The Seasider, which opened in late 2017. 

The Classy Bar at Beach Gardens
The restaurant’s interior sports a new design with a separate classy bar.  The outdoor patio has new furnishings with large umbrellas and a cozy fire pit for the cooler evenings; the same great views of Malaspina Strait can be enjoyed from both the dining room and patio. 
The Lovely Patio overlooking Malaspina Strait
If for no other reason, the excellent meals are worth the stop. 
The delicious Steak Bleu Cheese Salad
We shared the fabulous Steak Bleu Cheese Salad with strip loin, candied walnuts, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes and pea shoots with a honey vinaigrette; we also shared the Herb-Roasted Chicken Breast with seasonal vegetables, spinach and nugget potatoes in chicken Jus.
The delectable Herb-Roasted Checken Breast
For dessert, we finished with a Strawberry-Rhubarb Crumble. Other dishes included the Braised Clams with fennel sausage, local beer, orange rind, red chili and warm baguette with hand-cut frites; or you can try the Maple Pecan Salmon served with nugget potatoes and seasoned vegetables with a rhubarb chutney.  As long as you are having dinner, put a load of laundry in the new laundry facility which is now easier to access, located adjacent to the Beer & Wine Store.  The following morning, we motored south along the northeastern shore of Malaspina Strait looking for possible new anchorages.  McRae Cove, located east of McRae Islet, where Jervis Inlet joins Malaspina Strait, looks to be well-protected.  The entrance is rather narrow with charted rocks.
The entrance to McRae Cove
Investigating further, we were pleased to find a consistent flat sandy bottom, with anchoring depths of 10 feet at zero tide; watch for the drying area at the head of the cove.
The scenic cove has room for two or three boats to anchor
A channel leads to the back cove and is larger than it appears on the charts with room for two or three boats to anchor.
Scenic McRae Cove has windows to Malaspina Strait
The cove is rather scenic with windows to Malaspina Strait and a couple of homes on the north shore.  Continuing south, we reached our final destination of Pender Harbour to spend a few nights catching up on business.  Stay tuned for more updates. 


Saturday, July 28, 2018

Did You Know?


It’s not widely known that a lovely marina is tucked in Turner Bay near the Copeland Islands, north of Lund.  Although the marina is private, transient space is offered in unoccupied slips; ample side-tie is also used for transient moorage at the south end of the two sets of docks; moorage is for boats under 60 feet.  
The views overlooking the Strait of Georgia are gorgeous and the grounds are lovely with quality-made picnic tables and numerous flower baskets.  This scenic, quiet location is a delight, with the fitting name of “Bliss Landing.” 
A country road leads to a small park and continues to the north set of docks, it’s a relaxing, pleasant walk.  From the south docks, turn left at the very unique “Welcome to Bliss” sign. 
Bliss Landing has many of the convenient services boaters appreciate, like showers and laundry, and even a cozy reading room.  Guests will find water at the docks; 30amp and 50amp power.  Next time you are heading north or find that Lund is full, don’t forget about lovely Bliss Landing; register at the office located upland from the south docks.


Friday, July 27, 2018

Crazy, Lazy Days of Summer

Refuge Cove with the General Store and a Cafe

From Mansons Landing on Cortes Island, we made our way to one of the busiest marinas in Desolation Sound, Refuge Cove on West Redonda Island.  Boats come from nearby anchorages to get a bite to eat at the café, fill up with gas or diesel, and shop in the historic Refuge Cove General Store.  The marina’s 4-hour courtesy tie-up policy means that boats are constantly coming and going throughout the day; it’s good business for the store and fuel dock.  All sorts of watercraft show up here, from classic wooden boats to modern fiberglass boats of all makes and sizes. 
A separate float for additional moorage
With so many boats, one might be concerned about finding space at the docks but it’s only a short wait before space opens up. In addition to the docks near the store, a 70-foot detached float is also available for short-term 4-hour stays and for overnight stays; moorage payments are made at the store. 
Views from the Cafe are great, including the people watching
While Refuge Cove is a bustle of activity, it’s also a place to just relax and people watch.  The café above the marina has a great view of the harbour and the food is great. 
A band entertains marina guests 
Live music takes place in the evenings as scheduled throughout the summer months.  When we were at Refuge Cove, the marina was entertained by a group of 9 musicians and vocalists who sounded great and caught everyone’s attention, turning the evening into a fun affair. 
People come from all around to shop at the General Store
The focal point of Refuge Cove is the historic general store. 
The Refuge General Store has been in business for nearly a century with numerous owners through the years.  During a deep recession that followed World War I, business owner Donley had gone bankrupt, then Jack Tindall stepped in.  Jack arrived with a lease for the store, the store keys, and eleven dollars in his pocket.  He built up the business into a thriving store. 
The Whimsical Telephone Booth
His dance hall behind the store attracted people from as far away as Owen Bay in Okisollo Channel.  Tindall sold the store around 1945 to Norman and Doris Hope.  In 1972, a co-op, consisting of 18 share holders living within the property, purchased the 186 acres which includes the store and other buildings. 
The Cafe and Gift Shop
The commercial area is leased to businesses whose owners are all members of the co-op.  Despite the short summer season, the marina and businesses appear to be doing well.         

Wednesday, July 25, 2018

A Step Back in Time

The Dock and Sand Spit at Mansons Landing
Archival Photo of Jane & Mike Manson

A visit to Mansons Landing on the southwest side of Cortes Island is like stepping back in time.  The first pre-emption claim on Cortes Island was registered in 1887 by Mike Manson, who wanted to raise sheep and cattle.  A pre-emption, or agreement, to cultivate and improve 160 acres of land and live on the land for five years resulted in receiving title to the land granted from the British Government.  Mike Manson built a trading post and cabin at the location of the present-day government wharf.  He traded with natives, loggers and fishermen.  He also delivered meat and other supplies to small logging camps as far as 50 miles away. 
Mike’s younger brother, John Manson, also came to Cortes Island for a pre-emption claim in 1888 and established a farm called Sunny Brae, which is still actively farmed by John’s descendants.  John’s wife Margaret was known for her hospitality and was often referred to as Aunt Maggie.  Island social events are still held at the Sunny Brae farm.  Other families played an important role in settling the southern end of Cortes Island.  In the early 1900's, farmers and loggers arrived and many roads on the island are named after these early settlers.  Fred Froud donated a portion of his land for the construction of Manson’s Hall and St. James Church. 
The Historic Community Hall houses a cafe
The original Manson’s Hall is the portion now occupied by the café in today’s Community Hall.  Dances are still held in the Hall, carrying on the tradition of the past.  It was in the 1920’s when the seventy residents living in the area, pooled their money to build a community hall.  While the adults spent the night dancing, the children were put to bed in the loft upstairs.  Today, the sleeping loft is the projection room.  The Community Hall was enlarged in 1980 to house a post office, a playschool and offices.  In addition to dances, community picnics were also favorite social events, held on the spit and lagoon at Manson’s Landing. 
The Lagoon behind Mansons Landing
Today, boaters and visitors can dig for clams and oysters at low-tide (with the appropriate fishing license) in the Lagoon behind Mansons Landing, or enjoy picnicking on the beach and swimming in the lagoon at high-tides. 
The Hagues, another early pioneer family of the late 1800's, established a clam cannery near the lagoon.  Clams were processed and packed into cans made on site and shipped to the Hudson’s Bay Company.  It was a co-op cannery, run by Lydia Hauge and her business partner Delmark Lowe.  “Granny Hague” also planted orchards and delivered babies.  Hague Lake, named in the family’s honor, is another popular hangout for picnicking and swimming on Cortes Island. 
The Museum is housed in the Original Mansons Landing Store
The original Manson’s Landing Store that once stood above the wharf, was moved a mile up the road and now houses a museum with artifacts and historic photos. 
The well-stocked Co-op Grocery also has a cafe
In the same area, you will find a well-stocked co-op grocery store with a cafe, and a second grocery store across the street with Papa’s TakeOut next door.  For a real treat, don’t miss the home-made Marionberry Pie and Root Beer Floats at the Community Hall café.  The uphill walk of one-mile can be strenuous, but it’s the best way to get a genuine Mansons Landing experience.  If you have bicycles or the energy to go further beyond the grocery stores and Community Hall, you’ll find Cindy’s road-side stand, “Cortez Preserved." 
Cindy shares some childhood memories while selling jams and breads
Cindy sells home-made preserves, sauces, breads, and pastries.  You can even call-in your order at 250-935-6481.  Cindy is a descendant of early island settlers and loves to meet island visitors; drop by and say hello, she’s a delightful lady. 
The Public Wharf at Mansons Landing
The first hour of moorage at Mansons Landing is free; up to four hours is half-price; and over four hours is full price as posted at the head of the ramp with a self-registration payment box.

Tuesday, July 24, 2018

Intriguing Side-Trips

Passing a sailboat in Beazley Passage through Surge Narrows

Heading south from Waiatt Bay, we transited Surge Narrows, the “gate” between Okisollo Channel and Hoskyn Channel.  The current was running between 3 and 4 knots through Beazley Passage in Surge Narrows, but the transit was uneventful. 
North Entrance around Bold Island
South of the Narrows, we found some interesting side trips on the east side of Quadra Island along Hoskyn Channel – Bold Island and Village Bay.  Appropriately named, one has to be bold to circle around Bold Island, the north entrance is narrow with twists and turns leading to a small back bay and an oyster farm operation.  The south entrance appears to be open, but rocks and shoals lay in wait below the surface.  We entered from the north to circle Bold Island and exited at the south end, hugging the field of oyster-farm buoys to avoid the shoals. 
Workers at the Oyster Farm behind Bold Island give a wave
By following the charts and taking it dead slow, we had no problem.  This hidden spot is quite intriguing, and we appreciated the friendly waves from workers as we passed by the oyster farm float.  Continuing further south, we came to Village Bay, where we saw the remains of an old homestead on a cliff above the bay – a chimney and other recognizable pieces made the imagination wander.  We tried to anchor on the east side of a small islet in the bay, but we found poor holding in a rocky bottom.  Time to find another option for the night’s stay. 
Lovely Grounds and Marina at Gorge Harbour
Since we were meeting friends for dinner the next evening at Gorge Harbour Marina Resort, we decided to head east and arrived at Gorge Harbour, which has room for a large number of boats to anchor; we prefer the east end of the bay, where anchoring depths are good. 
The inviting swimming pool at Gorge Harbour Marina Resort
The following day, we were able to confirm space at the dock and join our friends for some social time.  The resort has beautiful manicured grounds, a cute store, nice restaurant, and an inviting swimming pool overlooking the harbour. 
 Having a Wonderful Dinner at the Resort is a Highlight
Dinners at the resort are excellent, and we really enjoyed the wonderful time with friends filled with lots of laughter and good conversation. 
Departing Gorge Harbour, other boats arriving
After a leisurely breakfast and morning farewells, we departed Gorge Harbour, headed for historic Mansons Landing located further south on Cortes Island.

Sunday, July 22, 2018

Connecting the Dots


Lovely Okisollo Channel
Departing Kanish Bay, we circled around the north end of Quadra Island through Okisollo Channel.  The Okisollo waterway is a lovely passage despite several fish farm operations.  Timing the two rapids along the way, Lower Rapids and Upper Rapids, is the biggest challenge but easily done.  As we approached Lower Rapids, the current was running at 4 knots; however, Lower Rapids and its charted rocks, can be bypassed by motoring between Okis Island and Barnes Bay on the Sonora Island side of the channel. 
Owen Bay is a pretty place to hold-up before transiting Lower and Upper Rapids
Once beyond Lower Rapids, we pulled into Owen Bay to await better timing for transiting Upper Rapids to the south.  Owen Bay is very scenic, backed by granite cliffs and tree-lined shores, dotted with summer cabins and homes.  Like Quadra Island, we were surprised by the number of houses on Sonora Island in remote Owen Bay. 
There are several coves in Owen Bay for anchorage
Large Owen Bay has several coves and bites in which to anchor and it's a nice place to wait for the rapids.  Both Lower and Upper Rapids can run to 9 knots on spring tides; at full boil in Upper Rapids, white-foaming waves stretch across the entire channel.  We departed Owen Bay an hour before slack to see if Upper Rapids could be challenged just ahead of slack.  Other boats had the same idea and were transiting through the rapids; we observed a 4-knot current running along the shorelines; in this case it worked well to keep towards the center of the channel where the water was reasonably calm; transiting an hour to a half-hour early turned out to be very doable this time of year.
A View of Okisollo Channel south of Upper Rapids
Next stop, the beautiful Octopus Islands and Waiatt Bay; boats arrive here from the north through Upper Rapids, from the south through Surge Narrows, and from the northeast through Hole In The Wall, all converging at this popular marine park.  
Waiatt Bay is a popular anchorage with room for many boats
Waiatt Bay is part of the Octopus Islands Marine Park with a trail that leads to Small Inlet in Kanish Bay on the other side of Quadra Island. 
Boaters arrive by dinghy and kayak at the head of Waiatt Bay to hike the Trail to Small Inlet
We took the kayaks ashore at the west end of Waiatt Bay and hiked the half-mile trail to the head of Small Inlet; where we had stayed the previous night. 
The Trail between Waiatt Bay and Small Inlet
The trail is mostly flat and easy to hike.  There is signage along the way, but the first sign you come to is somewhat misleading as the old trail pointing to Small Inlet is overgrown; instead, turn left as if going to Newton Lake, which will also take you to Small Inlet.  From Small Inlet, you can continue another mile along the trail to Newton Lake.  The first third of the trail to Newton Lake is flat and parallels the Small Inlet cove shoreline; the remaining portion of the trail is quite steep and is for the more adventurous hiker. 
Beautiful Newton Lake is a nice place for a swim
The hike is worth the effort, however, as Newton Lake is scenic with clear, clean water that serves well as a swimming hole.  Before reaching this beautiful large lake, hikers will come to a smaller, lake or pond, which shouldn’t be confused with Newton; keep going, you’re almost there!  For boaters who love to hike, Waiatt Bay is a nice option; to reduce the distance to Newton Lake and the trail that continues to Granite Bay, you can anchor in Small Inlet to access these trails.