We departed
Tofino on May 9 and made our way out the well-marked Deadman Channel into Heynen
Channel and Calmus Passage; first stop, Ahousat on Flores Island.
We confirmed that the Ahousat General Store
is still in operation and well-stocked.
The dock has ample space for guest moorage but is rather high, so we
adjusted our fenders accordingly.
Owner
Hugh Clark is getting up in years and now offers the use of his marine ways for
smaller boats only, 28 feet and under.
The café is ad hoc with no posted regular hours.
From Ahousat, we continued north up Millar
Channel and through Hayden Passage. Cruising
the protected inside waters, we rounded the north end of Flores Island and
headed out to sea via Sydney Inlet, bound for Hot Springs Cove.
We were met with steep 7-foot seas.
Once outside the islands, boaters are exposed
to the sea swell for only a short period but must make the turn around Sharp
Point on Openit Peninsula in order to enter the more protected Hot Springs
Cove.
In calm seas, it’s no problem; but
heavy seas can be a challenge for the uninitiated. Making it into
Hot Springs Cove in steep sea swell is similar to crossing a river bar.
It’s important to check wind and sea
conditions before committing.
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| The Dock at Hot Springs Cove is available for boats 40 feet and under |
We found
anchorage for the night near the head of Hot Springs Cove, but some sea swell still made its way into the cove that evening.
Boaters 40-feet and under
can tie-up at the Maquinna Park Dock for a fee; a payment box is located at the
head of the ramp.
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| The Boardwalk leading to Hot Springs Cove will soon be rebuilt and widened |
A 1.2-mile boardwalk
leads from the dock to the Hot Springs.
This Provincial park, established in 1955, is named in honor of
Maquinna, a First Nations chief; these lands were used by the Hesquiaht,
Ahousaht and Manhousaht bands.
The trail
to the spring was developed over time by the First Nations and later by early
settlers who created the original boardwalk; a store once stood at the landing
dock.
Later, boaters began the tradition of
carving boat names into the planks on the boardwalk, this tradition continued
for many years.
We learned last year
that the Parks Department is planning to widen the boardwalk due to the many
visitors that now come here by fast tour boat and float plane.
The Waggoner Guide Team suggested that the carved boards should be saved rather than destroyed, and that these boards could be used for another purpose in the
Park.
We are happy to report that the Parks Department plans to incorporate some of these carved boards into a planned structure.
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| Creative Carving of many Boat Names can be found along the boardwalk |
As we hiked along the
boardwalk, we admired the creative art work and the many boats, so named, that have come
and gone over the years.
We found our
own boat name which we had carved in 2011 and added the second date of 2018;
has it really been that long?!
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| Adding at date to our carved board along the historic boardwalk |
Visiting
the Hot Springs in early morning is best if you prefer fewer people.
Even early in the season, we found a constant
stream of people hiking the boardwalk trail.
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| An ocean-side pool at the Springs |
The Hot Springs consist of pools found among the fractured rocks and crevasses
associated with a major fault line that extends off shore from Mate Island,
north along the west side of Hot Springs Cove to Hesquiaht Lake.
In addition to enjoying a soak in the
springs, boaters may wish to have dinner at the
InnChanter, which is anchored in the Cove during the season.
Boaters can join guests of the B&B for
dinner if space is available aboard this 90-foot heritage vessel.
After our day’s visit, it was time to head
back out to sea and make that turn around Sharp Point and back into protected
waters of Clayoquot Sound.
Once again,
we were met by steep seas but managed with attentive work at the helm.
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| Hot Springs Cove has become increasingly popular |
We made the decision not to go further north
to Nootka Sound; a low pressure forecast with gale force winds and huge seas was
moving in along the north coast, and seas would take a week to subside.
Hot Springs Cove became our
turnaround point to head south again.
Retracing
our steps back through Hayden Passage, we veered north, entering Sulphur
Passage where we anchored in quiet Friendly Dolphin Cove.
This scenic, cozy cove has space for about
three boats and is well protected.
We
enjoyed the opportunity for a nice relaxing evening, soaking in the remaining
afternoon sun.
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