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| Arriving at Marina S. Ellena, Venice |
After a
lovely stay at Burano, we motored down the Venetian lagoon via Canale Giacomo
and Canale delle Navi, arriving at the southeast end of Venice and
moored at modern Marina S. Ellena with the usual stern-tie procedure.
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| Marina courtesy skiff guides boaters into an assigned space |
To make things easier, marina staff use a
skiff to push boats into position, a helpful aid in windy conditions.
This part of town is a quiet residential
area, offering a genuine Venetian culture with family-run restaurants, removed
from the throngs of tourists.
But a
visit to Venice is not complete without seeing the magnificent splendor and
wealth of the past found at St. Mark’s Square.
Thanks to Danielle and her parents who arranged an all-day tour (with
breaks), including many of these must-see sites:
Palaces of the Grand Canal via a private
excursion tour boat; a personal tour of the impressive Doges’ Palace; the awe-inspiring
St. Mark’s Basilica; the Clocktower; and the Bridge of Sighs, including the
prison cells.
The official birthday of
Venice is March 25, 421, according to tradition when the population fled the
barbarian invasions and established the first settlement on the islands of the
lagoon.
At that time Venice was an
unhealthy swamp whose inhabitants eked a living by fishing and salt production.
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| A Private Tour of the Grand Canal with friends Mark and Danielle |
The term Venetia was used to refer to all of
Veneto, the area of the lagoons still in Byzantine hands.
In the 13
th Century, sixty
parishes joined forces.
Each parish
corresponded to an island with some houses and palaces; the islands were linked
by ferries or by foot bridges.
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| Opulent Palaces line the Grand Canal |
The
islands constituted a single territory under a government that had already
started to claim its independence in the 9
th Century.
The fortune of Venice came from its
position and its efficient merchant fleet and participation in the
Crusades.
St. Mark’s Square, the only
real square in Venice, is the location of St. Mark’s Basilica, the Doges’
Palace, the Clocktower, the Procuratie (museum of artifacts), and the Campanile
(bell tower).
A Doge was the chief
magistrate and leader of the Serene Republic of Venice (697-1797).
Doges were elected for life by the
aristocracy.
The man selected as Doge
was usually the wisest elder in the city; being an elder, his term of office was often
short-lived.
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| St. Mark's Square |
The Doges’ Palace was the
residence for the Doge and was the seat of government.
It was Doge Enrico Dandolo that promoted the
Fourth Crusade, which led to the overthrow of the Greek Byzantine Empire.
The Gothic architecture and opulence of the
palace is a masterpiece.
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| The internal courtyard of the Doges' Palace |
The Palace has
an internal courtyard with a grand staircase that leads to the Doges’
apartments.
Doges were expected to bring
their own furnishings for their apartment.
When the Doge passed away, the family was expected to immediately clear
out the apartment.
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| The Golden Staircase, Doges' Palace |
Other rooms in the
Palace were for government administration and judicial purposes, entered by the
Golden Staircase with a 24-carat ceiling.
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| The Largest Room in the Doges' Palace |
The room known as the largest in the world was used for social
gatherings.
Huge friezes and paintings
adorn all of the walls and ceilings of the Palace.
Only the best Venetian painters were
contracted to do the work.
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The Senate Hall
|
The
legislators, chaired by the Doge, debated and passed laws in the Senate
Hall.
The Hall of the Council of Ten is
where 10 judges along with the Doge and his advisers met to hand out punishment
to traitors and violators.
A secret door
in one of the wood panels leads to the prison.
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| Bridge of Sighs (set back) connects the Doges' Palace with the prison cells |
By the 1500’s, the dungeons were full of political prisoners so new
prisons were built across the canal connected by a bridge, the Bridge of Sighs,
from which prisoners saw their last glimpse of Venice.
 |
Walking through the Bridge of Sighs
|
Next to the Doges’ Palace is the incredibly
rich and beautiful Basilica, a mix of East and West with Muslim-shaped onion
domes, Roman-style arches and marble columns, Byzantine mosaics, and carvings
from Constantinople.
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| St Mark's Basilica |
Surprisingly, all
these elements come together, creating the most interesting church in all of
Europe.
St Mark’s Basilica is a treasure
chest of booty from Venice’s glory days.
The Doge-led Crusaders brought back valuables from the Byzantine
capitol, Constantinople, including bronze horses, bronze doors, enamels, and
marbles.
The Basilica Treasury holds an
amazing collection of treasures from Constantinople.
Golden mosaics cover all the walls and domes
of the Basilica, reflecting light as if from heaven; the artistry is stately
and awe inspiring.
Pieces of gold leaf
were adhered to small cubes of glass or stone and pressed into wet clay – assembled
on the ground – then cemented onto the walls.
Thousands of square meters of gold mosaics include the Pentecost Mosaic,
Ascension Mosaic, the Last Supper, and many other Bible stories.
The Golden Alter piece is made of 250
enamels, 15 large rubies, 300 emeralds, 1,500 pearls, and assorted sapphires,
amethysts, and topaz; all part of the Venetians’ plunder of 1204, subsequently
pieced together by Byzantine craftsmen.
Even the floors are mosaics, with geometric patterns, made from colorful natural stone.
Visitors will notice that the
floors are uneven due to the sinking and shifting of Venice.
Think of all the weight from the many
buildings atop foundations constructed over marsh land of a lagoon; Venice is
indeed a marvel.
If you would like more
information on Canal Boating in Europe, or to book a canal boat trip for 2019,
contact Mark Bunzel, (mark.bunzel@gmail.com)
for information and briefings on canal boat trips in France and Italy now being
planned.
