Exploring Howe Sound

Emerald Green waters and majestic mountains in Howe Sound

Howe Sound is incredibly beautiful, it's no wonder that this area was selected when shooting scenes for the movie Double Jeopardy; the majestic mountains and emerald green waters are the perfect background for sailing and ferry boat scenes.  Our clockwise exploration of Howe Sound, starting from Gibsons, took us up the west side to Squamish (see previous blog post about Squamish), and back south down the east side of the Sound. 

A recognizable peak in Howe Sound, shown in the movie Double Jeopardy

There are several anchorages within the Sound, a few small marine parks, and even a Provincially designated site for burial of ashes at sea, called Mariners’ Rest.  Look for the stainless-steel cross on a rock islet off the west coast of Gambier Island in Thornbrough Channel. 

Mariners' Rest

Mariners’ Rest is dedicated to the remembrance of mariners, who have passed on; the “Mission to Seafarers” serves as custodian.  The burial at sea of ashes are conducted offshore, not on the island; no one may go ashore or add anything to the islet.  The "Mission to Seafarers" provides help and emotional support to captains and crew in over 200 ports around the world, including providing welfare and spiritual support services.  The year 2006, marked the 150^th anniversary of ministry to seafarers, and a special memorial service was held at Mariners’ Rest in Howe Sound. 

Approaching northern Defence Island

Most of Howe Sound is too deep for anchoring, but there are enough places to drop the hook and enjoy the beautiful scenery.  Anchorage can be found in the Defence Islands, on the north side of the 73 Meter Island depicted on charts.  The two Defence Islands are IR (Indian Reserve) property. 

Zorro Bay Anchorage

Further north, along the mainland, is the interesting bay of Zorro with ruins of a wharf, a nice beach and hiking trails.  Anchoring depths vary depending on how far off shore you anchor or whether you use a stern-tie.  

Boaters should be aware of the change of outflow and inflow winds when anchoring in Howe Sound. 

Porteau Cove Marine Park

Heading back south along Montagu Channel, on the east side of Howe Sound, boaters can stop at lovely Porteau Cove Marine Park which has one mooring buoy and a 60-foot float (not connected to land).  Two “shallow water buoys” near the float mark shallow areas.  A self-registration, payment box is located on the float.  Access to land is via dinghy, kayak or a short swim.  When approaching Porteau Cove, stay clear of the scuba diving area marked with yellow buoys.  Sunken ships and man-made reefs provide scuba divers an excellent site for exploration.  Anchoring within the park is prohibited.  Anchorage can be found on the south side of Gambier Island, across the channel from Porteau Cove in Halkett Bay and Port Graves.  

Halkett Bay (public dock on left)

Halkett Bay has one mooring buoy, labeled B.C. Parks, and 5 stern-ties recently installed this year by B.C. Parks.  A dinghy dock provides access to Halkett Bay Marine Park, which has three camp sites and hiking trails. 

Rafting up with friends in Port Graves

Port Graves, the next bay to the west on Gambier Island, has ample room for a large number of boats to anchor.  Here, we met up with friends, Knut and Christine, and rafted together in the bay. 

Knut with his walking stick

We caught up on cruising stories, and hiked the onshore trail towards Lost Lake. 

Christine and Leonard crossing a log bridge

The lake remains lost, since we walked only about half way when it was time to turn back.  The trail to Lost Lake is approximately 2 ½ miles with switchbacks through the trees and ferns, and bridges that cross over creek beds.  Port Graves is a nice place to spend time hiking and relaxing with friends.  A public wharf and float at the head of the harbour can be used for dinghies; the marked yellow side-tie space is reserved for the water taxi. The adjacent floats belong to a Christian camp. 

Beautiful mountain backdrop on the way to Snug Cove

From Port Graves, we motored to Snug Cove on the east side of Bowen Island and had a pleasant stay at Union Steamship Marina.  Like Gibsons, Snug Cove in the southern area of Howe Sound, is a popular destination, and reservations are highly recommended. 

Adorable buildings and boardwalks at Union Steamship Marina

Snug Cove is absolutely adorable, with attractive buildings, boardwalks and nice boutiques.  There are two well stocked markets and a nice selection of good cafes.  A new pub near the market store was recently completed, and the Copper Spirit Distillery is currently under construction, just upland from the marina. 

Snug Cove has many delightful cafes

Additional shops and eateries are found at the adjacent Snug Cove Public Wharf, which offers short-term and overnight transient moorage.  If you’re willing to hike up a steep gravel trail and paved drive, you will come to Artisans Square above the main village.  Artisans Square has several nice art galleries, a couple of cafes, and a chocolate shop.  Don’t miss visiting the Cashmere store, where elegant pieces are made and sold in-house.  Snug Cove, within close proximity of Vancouver, has recently begun to receive fly-in dinner guests via float plane. 

Union Steamship Marina

The marina is also seeing the trend of larger yachts arriving at their docks.  Snug Cove is definitely a fun place to be and has just about everything a boater could want, including parks and hiking trails.  You can pick up a trail map at the village visitor center, located near the library.